Mark McMahon’s Blog

July 1, 2001 Quito, Ecuador

From Alaska to Argentina on a Bicycle.
Stopped short just outside of Quito by a couple of Banditos! That’s the story of my new friend Toralf, from Berlin. (he has a website (www.toralfsreisen.de it is however, in German!)

The day we met he literally had but a nickel to his name. Earlier in the day he had been robbed of all of his belongings including his bike, camera and lenses, many rolls of film from his journey and his journal from the beginning of his trip.

Two days later we went to the Mercado de Los Ladrones, the robbers market, a surprisingly well-known place you can go to purchase ‘hot’ merchandise. Toralf printed flyer with a reward for his irreplaceable film and journal. By this time he had found out that his replacement traveler’s checks were on the way so he shopped for a new bike while he was there.

Fortunately I have been spared from any misfortunes lately, but two other friends have been victimized here in Quito, not far from my home away from home. My friend Max was stabbed very seriously in the arm in an altercation with drunken youths harassing his daughter after a soccer match. My recent co-pilot and videographer, Juan Carlos sustained a much less serious knife wound above his eye during an attempted robbery late at night outside of a discotheque.

If you happened to run into my mother, please keep these incidents to yourself. They have served to increase my awareness for my own safety and security. When it comes to Latin American capital cities, Quito is about as nice as they come. Still not safe at the wrong time in the wrong place.

June 19, 2001- Santa Domingo
 
Not more than a couple hundred yards from a major highway is a strong community of indigenous people known as the Indios Colorados.

 
The ‘Colored Indians’ are famous for their brujos and their red hair helmet/hats. At first glance the headwear appears to be a cap of sorts but it is in reality their own hair styled with the help of a red pigment from a seed found in the area.
When in Rome, sure, I had to try the style for myself.

   
Shamanstic tradition of the tribe is well known throughout the country and people travel great distances to be treated in this community for a variety of ailments. 
 
I had no complaints in the health department, but I was assured that a spiritual ‘tune-up’ was a good reason for a session with a red-hatted healer. 

  
I actually got two different sessions, one vapor bath of boiled herbs (very refreshing and relaxing) and one personalized visit to the shamans alter. 
  
The alter was covered with representatives of various spirits, the most prominent being a large stone shaped like a snake’s head.  

 
At times during the session, herbs were chewed and spewed into the air. I was asked to sample certain potions and spread others onto my skin. The shaman talked to me in Spanish between the numerous incantations that were in his native tongue. I was spellbound by his intensity. It was fascinating. 

June 5, 2001 - Ingapirca, Ecuador

 
For being so close to the equator, Ingapirca is surprisingly chilly. But the warmth of our hosts, Jose and Asoura, more than made up for the climate. 
 
In general, the people were extremely shy and timid towards strangers. But beneath their protective shells were bundles of smiling curiosity.  

 
Every morning we were treated to a parade of school kids and women shepherding their farm animals down the dusty road in front of our temporary home. The long road was the only access to the large co-op farm and the tiny schoolhouse.

 
For the second time in Ecuador I was treated to cuy for dinner. Yes, guinea pig again! And again, very tasty! We also ate a lot of choclo, a hearty and chewy form of native corn that is a staple in the area.

 
Most of the indigenous groups  in this country can be distinguished by their distinctive hats. This region has customs that go along with their headwear. The womens’ felt bowlers come with two dangling balls; either on the front or the back. Front or back indicates marital status. I won’t tell you which is which. You’re on your own when you come to visit. 
 
Our hosts went all out to share their customs and their countryside with us. We got tours of nearby villages as well as mountains and lakes. A lengthy expedition to a secluded lake did not yield as much fish as we had hoped but the views were spectacular.